greenwashing

25 April 2017

What natural skincare is available on the high street?
I’m often asked where to buy natural and organic skincare on the high street. I mainly shop online but if I’m ever caught short e.g. I’m away from home and I’ve forgotten to pack my moisturiser, then I have a few tricks up my sleeve.

21 June 2016

Organic Labelling Are we being misled? Little Soap Company Greenwashing
Disclaimer - *PR Samples

The world of organic cosmetics can be a little confusing and even I end up in a muddle trying to figure out what is right or frowned upon. I wrote an article back in 2013 which outlined the certification brands can obtain to verify their organic status. The problem is many brands cannot afford to sign up so they formulate with organic ingredients but the end product isn't certified. I have featured brands that fall into this bracket. I’d like you to consider this for products not certified organic, do you think it is misleading to include the word organic in a company name, to boldly display the word organic across packaging or display an in-house designed organic symbol which might imply you are certified to the untrained eye?

I admit that despite what I know I often overlook these misdemeanors. It's fair to say that my blogging relationship plays a part in why I do so. I'm friendly with many founders and I feel I know them on a personal level. However, if I pushed that all to one side would I feel differently about their products? Without the knowledge I have gained from the Green community would I even understand I was possibly being mislead? I received an email from a reader which made me stop and think. It simply voiced the doubts I was already having. Let’s just say the Little Soap Company has raised a few eyebrows since I mentioned them in a YouTube video. As bloggers we often accept products, the liquid and solid soaps met with my ingredient standards but the little green devil on my shoulder asked is it misleading that Little Soap Company have the word "organic" dominant on their bottles when the end product isn't certified? 

When I accepted products I hadn't seen the ingredients on the bubble bath and foaming body wash, these products were not sent to me. Now I am left wondering whether Little Soap Company can honestly claim their products are "free from detergents and synthetics" when they include cocamidopropyl betaine? Is it fair to say this goes against the original ethos and the rest of the product range? A few people have mentioned they feel this is “Greenwashing” so could there be double standards going on within the brand?

Shopping for natural and organic skincare shouldn't be this difficult. Do you ever feel like Sherlock Holmes each time you consider buying products? I often forget things on my checklist and then I feel dreadful when a reader tells me I have let them down. I feel the need to politely remind everyone that my "green" journey is self taught so I do make mistakes. I adore natural and organic skincare, I live and breathe it daily but I'm a consumer like everyone else, the only difference is I decided to write about my shopping habits. I wish organic certification was more affordable because I know there are honest brands out there who feel like the playing field isn't fair.

At the end of the day, I like Little Soap Company hand wash. I've been using it daily at work and at home. It doesn't dry out my skin and they offer an unscented version. The Little Soap Company is in a position which I am sure most natural brands would be envious of; the opportunity to compete on the shelves with mainstream products and bring green beauty to the masses must be the ultimate dream for many. It’s a huge bonus for Green Beauty consumers to be able to purchase natural products in the supermarket.

Let me leave you with something to contemplate. Do you think some brands are seduced by commercial opportunities resulting in a loss of integrity and ethics? Are some maybe partly selling out but doing it under the umbrella of their original ethos?

Sarah x

1 September 2015

Soil Association Organic September Organic Beauty Week #campaignforclarity
I feel quite strongly about brands who possibly mislead customers by marketing themselves natural and organic when they contain few of these ingredients. I personally refer to this as Greenwashing but others many feel differently. Back in 2013, I wrote an article giving guidance for buying organic beauty products. It's a little rough around the edges but the general message is you have to be label savvy if buying Organic is important to you. I know accredited organic certification isn't for every company because of the expense but as a consumer I do feel it is the only way to ensure the skincare products are truly organic. Standards such as COSMOS provide requirements for ingredients and manufacturing.

This leads me on to this years Organic September and the Soil Association's Campaign for Clarity. The campaign is a way to show the industry that greenwashing isn't acceptable.

"At Soil Association, we believe in educating and empowering consumers to shop for organic products so they know and understand exactly what they’re buying so we are launching our Campaign for Clarity, calling on brands to be honest and open in their claims and organic content and inviting consumers to join the campaign and fight for a better understanding of organic beauty and what it all actually means."

You can show your support for Campaign for Clarity by joining Thunderclap to share the message 

Sarah x

22 February 2014

Unfortunately, I feel the need to start this blog post with a little disclaimer. What you are about to read is MY personal opinion. I have two brands on my radar which make me raise my eyebrows.

Arbonne is an MLM business which means they have representatives selling their products. At the moment I'm approached on a regular basis. My first instincts about this brand is they fall under the umbrella of "green washing". It is very difficult to find ingredients on their website and I've never managed to get a representative to give me a full ingredients list. I did a little digging a few months back and came across a blog post by Meghan Telpner and I recommend you read it. It was published last year and is the closest I have come to finding out a little more insight into this brand without having to accept samples or buy products.

Despite sending one rep a list of ingredients I avoid (for ethical and allergy reasons), the response I received was intriguing "We have just been awarded the vegan logo on all of our products if this was a scam I don't think they would be doing that. The products are dermatologically tested, and free from parabens". There seems to be a distinct lack of understanding and I find it really sad. A Vegan approved product does not make it natural or organic and neither does leaving out parabens. From my dealings with this particular representative clearly they did not understand the products they were selling.

Now let me focus on Xenca who are getting a bit of attention from the Green Community. Xenca talk the talk on their website - "Our beauty products are free from parabens, petrochemicals, glycols and synthetic fragrances." but then in the next paragraph - "Our ingredients are as natural as possible – in most cases 100% natural. However, certain ingredients, due to quality, efficacy and processing requirements, can be enhanced by substances that are synthesised in the laboratory"
big bang sheldon
Xenca do not hide ingredients for their cosmetic products but I can't say the same for the skincare. It does raise an interesting question which I would like to put forward, at what point do you draw the line when it comes to your ingredient ethos? If a brand has, for argument sake, 9 out of 10 "clean" products but they have a rogue one among the mix, would you boycott them? Personally, I find it extremely frustrating for a company to ditch their natural ethos when it suits them and I am not willing to support them when they do this. Hopefully with advances in technology brands could have the opportunity to re-formulate. 

I welcome your opinions on these brands but please keep it civil :-)

Sarah x

9 July 2013

picture sourced from www.123rf.com


I did attempt to make a video for this blog post but it ended up in a jumbled mess as I couldn't find the words to get across my message. I subscribe to many natural bloggers/vloggers and Brianna (iluvjesse444) has made videos on the questions below, so all credit to her.

My Definition of Natural & Ingredient Standards 
To me a natural product is one that contains 100% - 95% botanical extracts and minimal preservatives or synthetic ingredients. When I refer to a Free From product it normally means that the product contains some ingredients which others may choose to avoid. They may contain a sulphate or controversial preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol, Japanese Honeysuckle and Grapeseed Extract. 100% natural skincare is always my priority but I am willing to compromise depending on where a product is used on my body. My list of ingredients to avoid is linked under my header. Another good list to bookmark is the one on the Green Beauty Guide. If you prefer a paperback then check out "No More Dirty Looks" & "Toxic Beauty"

Greenwashing brands & how to avoid them 
The definition of Greenwashing -  a form of spin in which green PR or green marketing is deceptively used to promote the perception that an organization's aims and policies are environmentally friendly. Whether it is to increase profits or gain political support, greenwashing may be used to manipulate popular opinion to support otherwise questionable aims. (wikipedia)

In the context of skincare products are marketed and packaged as natural but they will contain a minimal amount of botanical extract and a large percentage of synthetic ingredients. The only way to avoid is to make sure you are aware of ingredients and read labels. Using certified organic products is also another way to assure the quality of ingredients because there are strict guidelines in place for certification. Examples of greenwashing brands, many of which I have named and shamed on this blog - Lush, Yves Rocher, Korres, Sanex, Jergens, Corine de Farme, Little Me Organics, Timotei Pure, Organix and Streamcream.

Do You Have Access to Natural products? 
Truly natural products are a rare find on the high street. If you have an independent health store you will often find a good range of natural or free from brands. I have a store that stocks Antipodes, Jason, Lavera, Dr Bronner’s, Desert Essence, Pai, Dr Hauschka and many other good brands. Holland & Barrett has the Dr Organic line and they have a policy where they aim to only stock personal care which is free from from Parabens and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS). I have to say 90% of what I buy is from online shopping. I buy from dedicated natural skincare websites or independent sellers making handmade products.

I tag anyone reading, who has an interest in natural products, to answer these questions. Also make sure you check out Brianna's videos


Sarah x

15 May 2013



Louise, a cruelty free blogger (looweezbx.blogspot.co.uk) asked me an interesting question – “X label themselves as organic, do you know if they are legit organic or how can you tell?” 

In Britain, laws governing the labelling on organic foods do not extend to cosmetic products. A company can describe a product as organic even if it contains small amounts of organic ingredients. Last year Boots Little Me Organics advert was banned by the ASA (Advertising Standards Agency). A complaint was made that said “claims that the product was ‘organic’ were misleading because they implied it met an independent organic standard. The product had less than 5% organic ingredients.”

If you are keen to use organic skincare then you need to look at product labels and websites for signs of organic certifications from a recognised association. You will need to keep in mind that each organisation has different guidelines as to what qualifies a product organic. 

The Soil Association, UK - A product must contain a minimum of 95% organic ingredients but if it contains more than 70 per cent organic ingredients, it can still be certified by the Soil Association, so long as the exact proportions are stated. 

NaTrue, European Union - non-profit organization formed by natural cosmetic manufacturers in Europe. NaTrue has created 3 levels of certification (was a 3 star system) as follows: 1) Natural Cosmetics - Ingredients must be natural but they do not have to be organic (from organic cultivation). This level is the foundation of the NATRUE-Label: it defines which ingredients are permitted and how they may be processed. Products of the other two levels need to fulfil the criteria of this level first. 2) Natural Cosmetics with Organic Portion Natural cosmetics containing ingredients of organic origin:at least 70% of natural (and/or derived natural, where applicable) ingredients must stem from controlled organic production and/or controlled wild collection. 3) Organic Cosmetics - At least 95 % of natural* (*and/or derived natural, where applicable) ingredients must come from controlled organic cultivation and/or controlled wild collection.

Eco-Cert, France - Requires a minimum 95% of natural ingredients and a maximum of 5% of ingredients of synthetic origin. 10% of total product by weight (including the weight of water) must be organic.

USDA Organic, USA - a highly stringent set of organic standards for food manufacturers that requires at least 95% organic ingredients to use the "Organic" logo. Products that use 100% organic ingredients can use the "100% Organic" logo.

Organic Farmers & Growers - Further information on The OF&G Certification Scheme for Cosmetics and Bodycare Products can be found here.

Now you know the certification logos to look out for you have to be aware that there are organic "fakers". Having a product certified organic is costly so I understand why smaller companies don't take the plunge. However, I see a growing number of smaller businesses not displaying logos but instead simply claiming and promoting "made with certified organic ingredients". Also using the word "Organic" in the name of your company portrays an image to the consumer which could be misleading, as with the Boots case I mentioned earlier. Some companies even going so far as to use made up logos (I shall not name & shame but I have seen this recently).

So why the fuss? Let me explain that saying a product uses certified organic ingredients is not the same as having the final product certified. One obviously way to spot an organic "faker" is to look at the non-organic ingredients. There are strict guidelines for the preservative systems which are allowed and they must meet toxicity and biodegradability standards e.g if you see parabens then you have a faker on your hands as these ingredients would not be allowed by the Soil AssociationGetting a product certified also involves a set of procedures such as auditing the factory, batch testing products and ensuring correct labelling and packaging.

If buying organic skincare is important to you then purchase from Companies who are certified by a recognised organisation. If you are happy to buy from companies not accredited then make sure you read the labels and understand the true organic content. I see no reason to pay over the odds for a product which has only two certified organic ingredients within it and a bunch of questionable ingredients.

Please feel free to share your thoughts on this topic in the comment section below. Thank you to Abi (Essential Care) & Tamara (Rainbow Feet) for helping me with my research for this blog post.

Sarah x

13 May 2013

I wanted to write about Vitamin E but when I sat down to research the topic my brain exploded. I'm not good with the science stuff. I figured I shall write to the best of my knowledge and I'm sure you guys will fill in the gaps.

The reason why I decided to highlight this ingredient is because it comes in natural and synthetic forms. As you know I like to avoid as many synthetic ingredients as possible. I think the majority of us are aware that Vitamin E is popular in skincare because of its antioxidant properties and it can assist in healing skin. The problem for me is synthetic Vitamin E is petrochemical derived as opposed to natural which comes from wheat germ or vegetable oils. It has been proven that the synthetic versions can not be absorbed as easily into our skin therefore the benefits to the body are reduced.

How can you spot fake Vitamin E? The only way to do this is by reading labels on products. Vitamin E is generally known as Tocopherol in INCI format. If a label does not name the source of Vitamin E you need to spot certain words. When looking for a the natural form of Vitamin E, always select one that is "d" (not "dl") and the word tocopherol ends with "ol" (not "yl").


Natural = d alpha-tocopherol

Synthetic = dl alpha-tocopheryl

At the end of the day if you are unsure about an ingredient Google it or contact the manufacturer.

I hope this has been of interested and helpful to some of you?

Sarah x

25 April 2013

On occasion I like to be a little controversial and air some opinions about brands and the ingredients they use. Of course not everyone will agree with me but there are some brands that get my blood boiling - Lush, Yves Rocher,  Sanex and Corine de FarmeI get cross because I class them as "green washing" which basically means they are promoting themselves as natural but in fact they use a ton of synthetic ingredients in their products. Who is next on the naughty step? - Korres

The bloggersphere loves Korres so I know my viewpoint is probably going to get me a few unfollows. What winds me up about these products? Well, yes they have an impressive free from list but the product ingredients are still as long as my arm, with not many natural derived ones and a lot of unpronounceable ones. 

Even with the Free From list proudly displayed on bottles, they highlight they are using SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate), PEG and Fragrance. 

Free From labelling aside it's interesting to dig a little deeper into the full ingredient listings. I can't go through every product but I randomly selected a couple from the website and used EWG to source my information.

Jasmine Shower Gelnot only does it contain SLES but also Imidazolidinyl Urea - "antimicrobial preservative that acts as a formaldehyde releaser in cosmetics and personal care products." Another ingredient which catches my attention is Cocamidopropyl betaine - "a synthetic surfactant; it has been associated with irritation and allergic contact dermatitis, reactions that could be due to the ingredient itself or to impurities present in it, such as 3-dimethylaminopropylamine." 

Wild Rose 24 hour Moisturisercontains Butylphenyl Methylpropional - "synthetic fragrance, a skin irritant, its use is restricted in both leave-on and wash-off products because of its powerful sensitisation potential." (source theecologist.org)

Quercetin & Oak Night Creamcontains Silica Dimethyl Silylate, although the EWG database has no data it is described as "a silica-based synthetic derivative"

Lip Butters - A firm favourite with bloggers but the first ingredient is Polybutene “a polymer used as a plasticizer and viscosity agent.” Polyethylene is a common plastic, Propylene Carbonate is derived from propylene glycol.

The use of phenoxyethanol and Japanese Honeysuckle are debatable, they are common in products without Parabens. From a food allergy prospective I noticed many products contain wheat and gluten, a couple have lactose and whey proteins.

Whether you avoid these ingredients and products is entirely your own decision. Just don't let companies like this one, pull the wool over your eyes. They are NOT at one with Mother Nature. Obviously everyone is different when it comes to sensitive skin but I would be cautious with Korres, there are a number of ingredients which have the potential to be a skin irritant.

Sarah x

20 August 2012

Marks & Spencer Pure Natural Beauty
(Note: please be mindful that products can be re-branded & formulations changed, this post is the opinion of author at the time of publication)

I became aware that Marks & Spencer had launched a skincare line called Pure Natural Beauty. You know me I had to hot foot it down to my local store to see if this was as "natural" as it implies. The new range promises BUAV approval, 95% natural ingredients, eco friendly packaging, British manufacturing and ingredients. Products are free from artificial colours, synthetic fragrances (100% essential oil), parabens, silicones and mineral oil. I decided to purchase the Moisture Plus Treatment Mask (50ml £6) as I have been trying to replace the Liz Earle Intensive Nourishing Mask which contains parabens. 

I have not got around to testing so this is going to be a review of the ingredients. Unfortunately, at the time of writing this post the ingredients are not listed online so I am unable to analyse every product from the range, that would also be a huge undertaking on my part.

Marks & Spencer Pure Natural Beauty

I have selected INCI ingredients in the mask that are of interest to me and may be a little scary sounding as we can all identify naturally derived ingredients such as water and oats

Sodium Polyacrylate - a sodium salt of Polyacrylic Acid
Phenoxyethonal - preservative that may cause irritation, synthetically derived
Caprylhydroxamic acid - preservative I can not find any information to say it is a cause for concern
Tocopherols - class of naturally occurring chemical compounds related to Vitamin E
Methylpropanediol - an organic glycol that functions as a solvent in beauty products and cosmetics.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate - a biodegradable chelator used in detergent applications a low hazard according to EWG 
Sodium Hydroxide - a highly caustic and reactive inorganic base. In high concentrations it can cause irritation but in cosmetics it’s used in small doses
Aspartic acid - An amino acid that occurs naturally in sugar beet, sugar cane, molasses and other plants, can also be created synthetically. Used to make skin smooth, is most often found in products for dry skin.
Sodium chloride - Common table salt.
Algin - a type of carbohydrate, derived from brown seaweed

Preservatives are required in products containing water so you can't always avoid these types of ingredients. Personally I would rather see Phenoxyethonal further down the ingredient list because it may indicate a smaller amount present in the formulation. Cosmetics that are cruelty free are always top priority so it is nice to see M&S products now carrying the BUAV leaping bunny logo. I think my biggest problem with the branding is calling the range "Pure" and I'm of the opinion this can lead people to think it's ideal for sensitive skin and that might not be the case for everyone. All cosmetics are a cocktail of ingredients whether naturally derived or synthetic. How you react to these ingredients depends on your skin type. My intention here is to highlight that you might be wise to look beyond the name. For me "PURE" isn't full of natural ingredients plucked from the garden (I know formulations are more complex than that but it's the best way I can express myself here). There are synthetic fillers which help a company achieve the lower price point. You can find better ingredient lists from green beauty indie brands who are devoted to sourcing plant extracts. I appreciate that allergic reactions can be caused by any ingredient (natural and synthetic) and that's why I stress that people with sensitive skin need to re-evaluate formulations and take time reading labels. 

17 August 2012

Sanex Natur Protect Deodorant
Disclaimer - Ingredient correct at time of publication

Sanex is a brand that annoys me for misleading advertising. Recently they got a slap on the wrists for their shower gel adverts and were made to change the wording. Whilst browsing the supermarket aisles I found Sanex Natur Protect 0% aluminium chlorohydrate, parabens and alcohol.

I shall put it bluntly natural deodorants are not floating my boat. They are expensive and you have to find the right one to work with your body. I am stuck between a rock and a hard place, battling my environmental guilt alongside allergies and eczema. I want the junk out of my armpits but society does frown upon smelly people.

This Sanex deodorant contains 10 ingredients compared to over double in Sure Aloe Vera Sensitive (a product I have used). Sanex has removed aluminium chlorohydrate which has caused concerns in connection with breast cancer. However, the ingredients left behind could be possible skin irritants according to information available online. Now I know not everything is reliable on the internet but I think it's important to analyse ingredients.

  • Isobutene a hydrocarbon gas; used as a propellant in aerosolized products and possible irritation skin, eyes, lungs 
  • Butane is a hydrocarbon, functions as a propellant and there is evidence of irritation 
  • Propane similar to Butante functions as a propellant, evidence of toxicant 
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (cyclomethicone) is a silicon-based cyclic compound; may be associated with environmental toxicity 
  • Potassium Alum is an inorganic salt scores and classified as expected to be toxic & environmental toxin 
  • Dimethicone (also called polymethylsiloxane) is a silicon-based polymer used as a lubricant and conditioning agent. Restricted in cosmetic use 
  • Parfum - I am guessing this will be synthetic
  • Disteardimonium hectorite is an ingredient based on naturally occurring clay mineral hectorite; this ingredient is used as a thickening agent 
  • Propylene carbonate is a synthetic solvent and classified as an irritant 
  • Dimethiconol is a silicon-based polymer

The choice is entirely yours. For me, products free from synthetic ingredients are always going to be a better option. You cannot beat 100% natural ingredients however could this be a compromise?

Sarah x

Shopping for a plant based, ethical deodorant? then check out Odylique (affiliate link) use coupon code SUGARPUFFISH for 20% off (no expiry date!)

30 July 2012

This is the second time I have been approached by a French Skin care brand. Obviously not all skin care is created equal but once again I have discovered a brand that is not quite as it claims. Corine de Farme have started to launch in the UK. They have a partnership with Disney and launched four baby toiletries  with dual branding into Sainsbury's, Ocado, Boots and Amazon.  They have also launched into Sainsbury's with feminine care products.

Here's an extract from the email I received - A minimum 95% natural ingredients, Paraben free, Alcohol free, Phenoxyethanol free, Phthalate free, (allergen-free) fragrance. All products are also hypoallergenic & dermatologically tested. Clearly we do not claim to be 100% natural but we do strive to make our products with as high a natural ingredient content as possible. Although Phenoxyethanol is a natural ingredient we avoid using it where possible as it can also be a cause of irritation or adverse reaction.

I realised that I had looked at the feminine products in Sainsbury's the other week. I remember picking it up because of the free from ingredient list then promptly returning it to the shelf after discovering it contains SLES. Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (aka sodium laureth sulphate SLES) or sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are both inexpensive foaming agents. Sodium laureth sulfate is often regarded as less irritating than sodium lauryl sulfate. Both dry out your skin and are considered carcinogenic (the jury is out on the later information is conflicting).  Often you will see a product say it is free from SLS but it will contain SLES. Personally I avoid both because I see no difference between the two when it comes to my skin and eczema.

I follow Mademoiselle Nature and I asked her for some advice.  She confirmed my suspicions. She does not believe the 95% natural claims and questions the preservative system used to replace parabens and phenoxyethanol.

I googled Corine de Farme ingredients and Boots wesbite popped up.  The following ingredients are for the Corine de Farme Disney Winnie the Pooh lotion. I don't know about you but when a product claims to include ingredients from "natural origin" I expect to see ingredients that I would find outside my own front door. The only ingredient from nature that I can see is Calendula. Aqua; Glycerin; Paraffinum Liquidum; Cetearyl Alcohol; Phenoxyethanol; Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer; 1;2-Hexanedol; Caprylyl Glycol; Parfum; Sodium Hydroxide; Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract; Glucose; Tropolone; Sodium Benzoate; Potassium Sorbate; Caramel


Here are the ingredients for the body wash from the same baby range taken from Boots website. 
Aqua; Sodium Laureth Sulphate; Cocamidopropyl betaine; Sodium Chloride; Glycerine; PEG-200; Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate; Sorbitol; Citric Acid; PEG-7; Glyceryl Cocoate; Sodium Benzoate; Parfum; Potassium Sorbate; Sodium Hydroxide


The Intimate Care Shower Cream can be found on Sainsbury's grocery website and the ingredients are listed as Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Glycerin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Parfum, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, Lactic Acid, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Sodium Citrate.

There are a number of ingredients in these products that are associated with allergies. If you would like to learn more simply search them on EWG's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database. For me, Corine de Farme joins my list of faux naturals alongside Sanex, Lush, La Roche Posey and Yves Rocher.

29 June 2012

(Please note that formulations may change & the information presented here was correct at the time of publication)

This one is a difficult to write as there is so much love in the blogger community for the Liz Earle brand. I found Liz Earle on QVC many years ago long before I started this blog. When I started my "green" journey I considered Liz Earle to be a natural brand, they have a strong affinity with nature in their marketing and formulations. I was happy to share the love for her products but did you know that some of the formulations contain parabens? For example the Intensive Nourshing Treatment contains Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben.

"Some of our formulations are preservative-free. We do use preservatives when absolutely essential for product safety. We use relatively low concentrations of the highest grade, broad-spectrum preservatives and consider natural preservatives wherever possible." (extract from Liz Earle website)

The choice to avoid parabens is truly a personal one and when a formulation contains water it must have a preservative system. What I do like about the Liz Earle website is the full ingredient lists are available for viewing before purchase. At this time the Sheer Skin Tint, Intensive Nourishing Treatment, Brightening Treatment Mask, Daily Eye Repair, Smoothing Line Serum and Eyebright contain parabens. There might be a case here to argue that Liz Earle is slightly greenwashed. When not using parabens the other preservative in use is Phenoxyethanol.

I know not everyone has the same philosophy about skin care as me. Choosing to use only naturally derived ingredients and avoiding synthetic ones is a personal decision. Any ingredient can cause an allergic reaction but I personally feel there are a handful of synthetic ones which trigger my eczema. If you are looking for a dupe to the Liz Earle range then I'd point you in the direction of Tropic Pure Plant Skincare.

Sarah x

30 May 2012

Are Yves Rocher telling the truth? Are we being Greenwashed?

Updated 31.07.12 - Yves Rocher have been stripped of the leaping bunny logo

You're probably familiar with the brand Yves Rocher as it is successful in Europe and USA. A while ago I was approached by someone representing them with a friendly but bold statement - "I thought you might be just the person to work with as I can see that you are interested in natural and free from products - Yves Rocher have a wide range of organic and natural products and pride themselves on their botanical ethos". 

Personally, I won't accept products without giving consideration to formulations and sadly Yves Rocher do not make that easy since they do not list full ingredients on their website. My response to this situation is to ask the representative for clarification on the following -

Do you have Vegetarian or Vegan approval? What is your policy on Animal Testing? Can you tell me more about your ingredients policy is? For example, do your products contain any of the ingredients listed below: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Parabens, Mineral oil and petroleum derived ingredients, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Artificial Fragrance or Parfum, DEA or TEA (di- or tri-ethanolamine), Phthalates (DBP/DMP/DEP) and Lanolin

I have been waiting for a reply and completely forgot about it until this week when an email finally arrived. The following has been copied straight from the email so if the grammar looks out of place the writer has translated French to English.

"According to the European directive, "products launched on the cosmetic market cannot damage the human health when they are applied in normal or predictable conditions of use". We study all the raw materials entering into our products composition and we realise series of tests on our finished products before their launch on the market. These tests are realised on cell cultures then on human volunteers to confirm that these products are tolerated well. Moreover, our products are no more tested on animals since 1989. 

All our products are conceived from plants directly: we select among more than 1,100 ingredients from plants origins that are studied by our laboratories, each best adapted to the specific cosmetic profits of every product, while defining their just concentration. Also, we always give priority to components from natural origins in our formulas, as long as the efficiency and specifically the safety - of these natural materials are guaranteed. In case they were not entirely guaranteed, we prefer using synthesis ingredients. Finally, we do not use neither aldehyde, triclosan nor lanolin in the formulation of our products. Only two of our products still contain Diethylphtalate used for alcohol distorting: those products are Eau de toilette Plaisirs Nature flavour "raspberry" and the Perfumed Deodorant of the So Elixir Purple perfume (launch 09/2012)" 

It's an honest response but I have to weigh up the contents. I'm not completely against synthetic ingredients as they can serve a purpose e.g preservation but I would still like to know specific ingredients. I decided to do a little digging on the internet and came up with a couple of resources that lead me to believe Yves Rocher formulation can contain parabens, mineral oils and perfume. These are ingredients I am avoiding for a variety of reasons.

The purpose of this article is to demonstrate how some brands really don't wish to give away much about formulations. When you can't physically get hold of a product then you become reliant on the information presented online. What brands fail to recognise is that for customers with allergies and sensitive skin, every ingredient is important. I'd spend my entire time returning products if I could never read a full ingredient list. I prefer to work with smaller indie brands who are open to transparency and willing to share their formulations in detail. I do not doubt that Yves Rocher use botanical plant extracts but there are potential fillers (synthetic ingredients) that may be a concern if you have allergies and/or sensitive skin. I will always ask brands questions because I can not take personal risk with my allergies. I hate wastage so would rather not receive products that I can't test and I'm not keen to pass them along to friends/family if I don't personally approve of the formulations.

I'm not comfortable working with Yves Rocher, as I suspect them of being "Fake Natural Skincare" and I would argue a case for potential greenwashing. Why? because they market on green credentials but use ingredients which other natural brands would avoid. Products that are produced on a mass scale and sold around the world are often formulating on filler synthetic ingredients to keep consumer costs low, quality botanical ingredients are not necessarily going to be budget friendly.

Sarah x

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7 September 2011


Ingredient Review Liz Earle Intensive Nourishing Treatment Mask

There is one thing that is a national obsession in the UK and that is the weather. The past few days have been a little on the chilly side which means I need to consider making changes to my skin care routine. My eczema hates cold weather so I need to treat it with TLC. One product which I have been using is Liz Earle Intensive Nourishing Treatment Mask.

Liz Earle was one of the earlier brands I discovered on my Green Beauty journey. Like most people I was introduced to Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser which really changed the way I washed my face. I'm now a big fan of the muslin cloth for removing cleansers. The more my knowledge has expanded I realised that Liz Earle products are not as "clean" as one would hope for depending on what ingredients you choose to avoid. This will be my last tube of Intensive Nourishing Treatment mask because it does contain parabens, talc and perfume. 

I decided to continue to offer a mini review because not all readers will share the same feeling about ingredients. I've used the mask from time to time when my skin is at its driest. After cleansing, you apply a layer of the mask onto your face, then leave it to absorb for about 10-15 minutes. Once time has passed if you have any residue left you simply wipe it off. I can't deny that this mask gives my skin a boost and injects moisture as I'm left with glowing skin that feels soft and nourished. 

As I mentioned Liz Earle is a company that I no longer wish to support not only for the ingredients but they sold to Avon and then Walgreens Boots Alliance (owner of Boots). This put doubts in my mind about supporting parent companies where there are questions over animal testing.

8 August 2011

Fake Natural Skincare - Sanex Zero, Jergens, Lush
I feel there are number of products on the market that claim to be natural and organic but are full of synthetic ingredients. It is all about clever marketing, ambiguous wording and fancy packaging. If you decide to switch your skincare from mainstream to natural you need to become a savvy shopper and learn ingredients and INCI. As the saying goes "do not judge a book by its cover". It is a skill that takes a little while to perfect and I do not always get it right, as you'll remember from my previous post about Body Shop shower gel.

You've probably heard of Jergens Natural, which is promoted as “natural” skin cream. The claim is "95% natural ingredients" but the formulation still contains synthetic fillers. A natural extract has been altered in a laboratory it's not quite the same as using the ingredient direct from nature. Lush is another brand who I believe is hiding behind its image of natural handmade products. Many of their product still contain parabens, colourants, parfum and SLS. These are ingredients frowned upon in the Green Beauty community. I became all to aware of this after purchasing Dream Cream, a product often recommended for eczema prone skin. Sadly, I experienced a reaction and that's when I decided to do a little research on the ingredients. Dream Cream does contain naturally derived ingredients but also lists parabens, parfum and Triethanolamine (a synthetic emulsifier).

It was Sanex Zero% that kick started my thought processes today after a sample drop from a magazine I was reading. Now Zanex isn't claiming "natural extracts" so they are not competing for a piece of the green beauty pie, however, they are claiming to have omitted ingredients which might give the impression that it falls under the "free from and natural" umbrella. Part of what the natural community believes in is the ingredients we choose to avoid. At first glance this product boldly tells you "Zero %" with parabens, colourants and soap listed below but it's the full ingredient list which gives a complete picture of the formulation. Turn the packaging around and you read “contains a reduced number of ingredients” which is a clever use of words. Cast your eye over the full ingredients and you see listings for SLS and parfum. Why does this bother me so much? well, Sanex markets to the consumer with sensitive skin, SLS and parfum are known skin irritants. Of course everyone is different but it still bothers me on principal.

I've become aware of ingredients out of a necessity to try and establish why I'm reacting to some products. There are online resources such as EWG's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database and searching Google will bring up other articles. I encourage reading as much as possible so that you can obtain a balance of views. It's important to arm yourself with knowledge, look towards smaller brands who are transparent with ingredient lists. Remember that some big global brands are simply jumping on trends, "paraben free" are the buzz words at the moment.

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