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1 December 2014

ingredient review for simple skincare
I have re-written this blog post what feels like a million times. Sometimes it can be difficult to put into words my passion for why I choose natural ingredients. I do like to present facts and encourage readers to question companies. It can be hard to stand up against big brands and then (as I know from experience) have to deal with people who become upset by your opinions. Readers have accused me of damaging businesses, of picking on some companies and not others. Let’s just set the record straight, I very much doubt that one person’s opinion can “bring down” a multinational corporation. I am a little fish in a big ocean when it comes to my weight as a consumer. As much as I would love to critic many other brands, I don’t have the time to write about them all so I select brands that appear popular and currently on trend. 

I think it’s very naive that some people believe companies have the wellbeing of their consumers at heart and that everyone is decent when it comes to company ethics – think about cigarette causing cancer and leaking breast implants, we have whistleblowers to thank for giving consumers knowledge. I certainly would never regard myself as a whistleblower but the purpose of blog posts like this one is to basically say "hey, dear readers, you have a choice, don’t always believe the marketing hype, listen to your skin and spend your money wisely". Remember, I am also trying to share my experience dealing with allergies and eczema. I have spent many years trying to figure out why I have skin problems. Is it genetics or is it the environment around us, the food I eat, place where I live or the products I put on my skin? I also want to help protect the Earth for future generations, what goes into for example, a body wash ends up down the drain and into our water and soil. 

Simple Skincare has been around for years and I tried their products in my teens and promptly reacted to them. Recently Simple have been working with bloggers so they came to the forefront of my mind once again. When I saw this sentence in a review - "With Simple I never feel like I'm putting nasty chemicals on my skin" - I wanted to scream a little and I felt the need to express my opinions.  I have never been comfortable with the Simple and their image for being "sensitive skincare experts". I am upset by the bold as brass wording "skin loving ingredients, no harsh chemicals". Why? Because I believe it is misleading. Their formulations make me feel uncomfortable. In order to support my argument, I decided to take a closer look at the product line. 

Simple’s tag line appears to be based on products being free from artificial perfume, colours and no harsh chemicals. For some people being free from perfume and colours is a positive selling point, there will of course be consumers who have sensitivity to these ingredients, me included. However, I have a wide range of irritation triggers so Simple does not meet my needs. You could argue, it is impossible to cater to everyone and I do not disagree on that point. However, I wrote a blog post the other week and explained why the phrase “no harsh chemicals” does not sit comfortably with me. What do Simple class as a harsh chemical? From where I am standing, their products are loaded with synthetic ingredients which I believe may cause irritation and could be classed as harsh on skin. 

I looked at ingredient lists across Simple’s product line and I can demonstrate why I believe the phrase "no harsh chemicals" is a bit cheeky. I spotted 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol a antimicrobial preservative that may contain/release formaldehyde, which is an irritant, carcinogenic and a neurotoxin. Formaldehyde is a proven toxin so would you not class this as a "harsh chemical"? The majority of Simple products contain parabens and BHT (Butylated hydroxytoluene), used for preserving and both regarded as a toxin and allergen. The face wash contains SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulphate) and Cocamidopropyl betaine, synthetic surfactants associated with irritation and allergic contact dermatitis. I noticed Dimethicone in the facial creams, a silicone based polymer which I avoid because I believe it has the potential to irritate delicate skin. Now you could argue that the average person probably won’t feel any ill effects from these ingredients, however, I think there is strong evidence to show a risk for those who are prone to sensitivity, the exact consumer these products appear to be formulated and marketed towards.

I noticed on the front of each bottle that Simple give you the number of “skin loving” ingredients, for example, four in the Night Cream (glycerine, bisabolol, allantoin, borage oil). That equates to 20% of the product containing ingredients which Simple are happy to market as “skin loving” but what about the other 80%? I can never understand why any consumer would be comfortable with this ratio. The natural and organic skincare I choose probably contain 90% to 100% natural ingredients (as in recognisable from plants and pronounceable). I accept that not every natural plant extract is suitable for the entire population but my positive experiences outweigh all the negative ones from ranges available on the High Street. 

Bottom line is Simple Skincare is not for me. Of course, you have the right to decided what to put on your skin but I would like to encourage readers to do their homework. Be aware that even a product that claims to be suitable for sensitive skin may have the potential to irritate.

Sarah x

Let me recommend a brand you can trust - Odylique (affiliate link) use coupon code SUGARPUFFISH for 20% off (no expiry date!)

14 August 2014


Waitrose Pure
Disclaimer - always check ingredient labels as formulations can change. Since writing this article MI has been banned from leave-on cosmetics.

I have been meaning to write about a new(ish) range from Waitrose that goes by the name "Pure". It popped back into my mind because I have seen green bloggers asking for advice on whether it lives up to the name. Simple answer is NO. From where I am looking, a couple of the products (face polish & beauty balm) are free from recognisable synthetics but the rest of the range makes me cringe. Look closely and you'll find Dimethicone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI), Methylisothiazolinone (MI), Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, to name a few. Alarm bells goes off in my head when I see MCI/MI, these are controversial ingredients which Dermatologists are linking to the rise in allergic reactions and want banned. Yes, you read that correctly and get this, Pure is marketed as "Natural care for Sensitive Skin". If only you could see my face whilst typing, it ain't smiling!

Ingredient Review Waitrose Pure Skin Care
I think ingredient quality has been compromised for price (average cost £1.99/£2.99). Depending on which product you look at there is a percentage claim of naturally derived ingredients (somewhere between 90 - 100%). Ingredients like Cocamide DEA are chemically modified from nature (in this case coconut oil) so yes you can say “naturally derived” but I would not exactly call it "pure". Of course, it's not all bad, there are some familiar natural ingredients across the range (e.g. shea butter, olive oil & almond oil). I say that with gritted teeth because the rest of the ingredients are not in the least bit appealing to me. Full ingredients are available on Waitrose website for your viewing pleasure. If ingredients do not concern you then head down to your nearest store but if you have sensitive skin be selective about the products you purchase.

Sarah x

Let me recommend a brand you can trust - Odylique (affiliate link) use coupon code SUGARPUFFISH for 20% off (no expiry date!)

25 April 2013

On occasion I like to be a little controversial and air some opinions about brands and the ingredients they use. Of course not everyone will agree with me but there are some brands that get my blood boiling - Lush, Yves Rocher,  Sanex and Corine de FarmeI get cross because I class them as "green washing" which basically means they are promoting themselves as natural but in fact they use a ton of synthetic ingredients in their products. Who is next on the naughty step? - Korres

The bloggersphere loves Korres so I know my viewpoint is probably going to get me a few unfollows. What winds me up about these products? Well, yes they have an impressive free from list but the product ingredients are still as long as my arm, with not many natural derived ones and a lot of unpronounceable ones. 

Even with the Free From list proudly displayed on bottles, they highlight they are using SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate), PEG and Fragrance. 

Free From labelling aside it's interesting to dig a little deeper into the full ingredient listings. I can't go through every product but I randomly selected a couple from the website and used EWG to source my information.

Jasmine Shower Gelnot only does it contain SLES but also Imidazolidinyl Urea - "antimicrobial preservative that acts as a formaldehyde releaser in cosmetics and personal care products." Another ingredient which catches my attention is Cocamidopropyl betaine - "a synthetic surfactant; it has been associated with irritation and allergic contact dermatitis, reactions that could be due to the ingredient itself or to impurities present in it, such as 3-dimethylaminopropylamine." 

Wild Rose 24 hour Moisturisercontains Butylphenyl Methylpropional - "synthetic fragrance, a skin irritant, its use is restricted in both leave-on and wash-off products because of its powerful sensitisation potential." (source theecologist.org)

Quercetin & Oak Night Creamcontains Silica Dimethyl Silylate, although the EWG database has no data it is described as "a silica-based synthetic derivative"

Lip Butters - A firm favourite with bloggers but the first ingredient is Polybutene “a polymer used as a plasticizer and viscosity agent.” Polyethylene is a common plastic, Propylene Carbonate is derived from propylene glycol.

The use of phenoxyethanol and Japanese Honeysuckle are debatable, they are common in products without Parabens. From a food allergy prospective I noticed many products contain wheat and gluten, a couple have lactose and whey proteins.

Whether you avoid these ingredients and products is entirely your own decision. Just don't let companies like this one, pull the wool over your eyes. They are NOT at one with Mother Nature. Obviously everyone is different when it comes to sensitive skin but I would be cautious with Korres, there are a number of ingredients which have the potential to be a skin irritant.

Sarah x

30 July 2012

This is the second time I have been approached by a French Skin care brand. Obviously not all skin care is created equal but once again I have discovered a brand that is not quite as it claims. Corine de Farme have started to launch in the UK. They have a partnership with Disney and launched four baby toiletries  with dual branding into Sainsbury's, Ocado, Boots and Amazon.  They have also launched into Sainsbury's with feminine care products.

Here's an extract from the email I received - A minimum 95% natural ingredients, Paraben free, Alcohol free, Phenoxyethanol free, Phthalate free, (allergen-free) fragrance. All products are also hypoallergenic & dermatologically tested. Clearly we do not claim to be 100% natural but we do strive to make our products with as high a natural ingredient content as possible. Although Phenoxyethanol is a natural ingredient we avoid using it where possible as it can also be a cause of irritation or adverse reaction.

I realised that I had looked at the feminine products in Sainsbury's the other week. I remember picking it up because of the free from ingredient list then promptly returning it to the shelf after discovering it contains SLES. Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (aka sodium laureth sulphate SLES) or sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are both inexpensive foaming agents. Sodium laureth sulfate is often regarded as less irritating than sodium lauryl sulfate. Both dry out your skin and are considered carcinogenic (the jury is out on the later information is conflicting).  Often you will see a product say it is free from SLS but it will contain SLES. Personally I avoid both because I see no difference between the two when it comes to my skin and eczema.

I follow Mademoiselle Nature and I asked her for some advice.  She confirmed my suspicions. She does not believe the 95% natural claims and questions the preservative system used to replace parabens and phenoxyethanol.

I googled Corine de Farme ingredients and Boots wesbite popped up.  The following ingredients are for the Corine de Farme Disney Winnie the Pooh lotion. I don't know about you but when a product claims to include ingredients from "natural origin" I expect to see ingredients that I would find outside my own front door. The only ingredient from nature that I can see is Calendula. Aqua; Glycerin; Paraffinum Liquidum; Cetearyl Alcohol; Phenoxyethanol; Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate; Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer; 1;2-Hexanedol; Caprylyl Glycol; Parfum; Sodium Hydroxide; Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract; Glucose; Tropolone; Sodium Benzoate; Potassium Sorbate; Caramel


Here are the ingredients for the body wash from the same baby range taken from Boots website. 
Aqua; Sodium Laureth Sulphate; Cocamidopropyl betaine; Sodium Chloride; Glycerine; PEG-200; Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate; Sorbitol; Citric Acid; PEG-7; Glyceryl Cocoate; Sodium Benzoate; Parfum; Potassium Sorbate; Sodium Hydroxide


The Intimate Care Shower Cream can be found on Sainsbury's grocery website and the ingredients are listed as Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Glycerin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Parfum, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, Lactic Acid, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Sodium Citrate.

There are a number of ingredients in these products that are associated with allergies. If you would like to learn more simply search them on EWG's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database. For me, Corine de Farme joins my list of faux naturals alongside Sanex, Lush, La Roche Posey and Yves Rocher.

30 May 2012

Are Yves Rocher telling the truth? Are we being Greenwashed?

Updated 31.07.12 - Yves Rocher have been stripped of the leaping bunny logo

You're probably familiar with the brand Yves Rocher as it is successful in Europe and USA. A while ago I was approached by someone representing them with a friendly but bold statement - "I thought you might be just the person to work with as I can see that you are interested in natural and free from products - Yves Rocher have a wide range of organic and natural products and pride themselves on their botanical ethos". 

Personally, I won't accept products without giving consideration to formulations and sadly Yves Rocher do not make that easy since they do not list full ingredients on their website. My response to this situation is to ask the representative for clarification on the following -

Do you have Vegetarian or Vegan approval? What is your policy on Animal Testing? Can you tell me more about your ingredients policy is? For example, do your products contain any of the ingredients listed below: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Parabens, Mineral oil and petroleum derived ingredients, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Artificial Fragrance or Parfum, DEA or TEA (di- or tri-ethanolamine), Phthalates (DBP/DMP/DEP) and Lanolin

I have been waiting for a reply and completely forgot about it until this week when an email finally arrived. The following has been copied straight from the email so if the grammar looks out of place the writer has translated French to English.

"According to the European directive, "products launched on the cosmetic market cannot damage the human health when they are applied in normal or predictable conditions of use". We study all the raw materials entering into our products composition and we realise series of tests on our finished products before their launch on the market. These tests are realised on cell cultures then on human volunteers to confirm that these products are tolerated well. Moreover, our products are no more tested on animals since 1989. 

All our products are conceived from plants directly: we select among more than 1,100 ingredients from plants origins that are studied by our laboratories, each best adapted to the specific cosmetic profits of every product, while defining their just concentration. Also, we always give priority to components from natural origins in our formulas, as long as the efficiency and specifically the safety - of these natural materials are guaranteed. In case they were not entirely guaranteed, we prefer using synthesis ingredients. Finally, we do not use neither aldehyde, triclosan nor lanolin in the formulation of our products. Only two of our products still contain Diethylphtalate used for alcohol distorting: those products are Eau de toilette Plaisirs Nature flavour "raspberry" and the Perfumed Deodorant of the So Elixir Purple perfume (launch 09/2012)" 

It's an honest response but I have to weigh up the contents. I'm not completely against synthetic ingredients as they can serve a purpose e.g preservation but I would still like to know specific ingredients. I decided to do a little digging on the internet and came up with a couple of resources that lead me to believe Yves Rocher formulation can contain parabens, mineral oils and perfume. These are ingredients I am avoiding for a variety of reasons.

The purpose of this article is to demonstrate how some brands really don't wish to give away much about formulations. When you can't physically get hold of a product then you become reliant on the information presented online. What brands fail to recognise is that for customers with allergies and sensitive skin, every ingredient is important. I'd spend my entire time returning products if I could never read a full ingredient list. I prefer to work with smaller indie brands who are open to transparency and willing to share their formulations in detail. I do not doubt that Yves Rocher use botanical plant extracts but there are potential fillers (synthetic ingredients) that may be a concern if you have allergies and/or sensitive skin. I will always ask brands questions because I can not take personal risk with my allergies. I hate wastage so would rather not receive products that I can't test and I'm not keen to pass them along to friends/family if I don't personally approve of the formulations.

I'm not comfortable working with Yves Rocher, as I suspect them of being "Fake Natural Skincare" and I would argue a case for potential greenwashing. Why? because they market on green credentials but use ingredients which other natural brands would avoid. Products that are produced on a mass scale and sold around the world are often formulating on filler synthetic ingredients to keep consumer costs low, quality botanical ingredients are not necessarily going to be budget friendly.

Sarah x

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